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More From Hopetown

April 29, 2015

Thanks to Bejay, fellow traveler and photographer extraordinaire, here are a few more pictures from Hopetown.  She has captured the colorful Bahamian architecture quite well.

On the Harbour front

On the Harbour front

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Monument to the 1st Loyalist Landing on Elbow Cay

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The “Sugar Shack”, home to its legendary “Caramel Chocolicious” ice cream.

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Some homes have intricate “gingerbread”

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The

The “Guys” are looking for the “Girls”.

The

The “girls” are relaxing in the Coffee shop.

The Lighthouse from the bottom up

The Lighthouse from the bottom up

On the Atlantic side of

On the Atlantic side of “Elbow Cay”

“On Da Beach”

Hopetown, The “Jewel” of the Abacos

April 23, 2015

Arriving in Hopetown on Elbow Cay, from Marsh Harbour feels a bit like landing on a different planet.

And Sylestial Star has landed in this “Jewel” of a Cay.

With as much as a 3′ tidal difference, the timing of entering many Bahamian harbors is critical.  Along with Carolina Moon, we departed Marsh Harbour at 6:45 am for our crossing of the Sea of Abaco and arrival in Hopetown Harbour at high tide.

Preparing for an early departure from Marsh Harbour

Preparing for an early departure from Marsh Harbour

Bejay on Carolina Moon, pre-departure.

Bejay on Carolina Moon, pre-departure.

Mike is ready to go.

Mike is almost ready to go.

“Island Mon” on the way to Hopetown and Elbow Cay.

Hopetown is unlike any of the other areas we have visited since we arrived in the Bahamas. Its well protected harbor is full of mooring balls with no anchoring allowed.  The harbor is partly surrounded by a small but busy and picturesque town and overlooked by a well known lighthouse( purportedly one of only 3 kerosene lighthouses in the world).  And a golf cart tour of the island reveals it as very scenic, and inhabited by the 1% whose “winter” homes are tucked away behind the Cay’s rough vegetation and imported Palm trees. It seemed to us to be a smaller and very much Bahamian version of Nantucket.

Hopetown Harbour from the Lighthouse

Hopetown Harbour from the Lighthouse

Mike made a reservation for mooring balls for Carolina Moon and Sylestial Star from “Captain Jack”, who also runs a very popular harbourside restaurant here. He seems to be a rather long time fixture in these parts and at $20 a night( cash only) the price is right.

Another view of Hopetown Harbour from the Lighthouse - Can you spot Sylestial Star?

Another view of Hopetown Harbour from the Lighthouse – Can you spot Sylestial Star?

Arriving at "Captain Jack's" for another fine meal.

Arriving at “Captain Jack’s” for another fine meal.

Enjoying another meal at

Enjoying another meal ( one of many), at “Captain Jack’s” – Sylestial Star is behind Sylvia

image While here for 4 days, we were able to rent golf carts to drive to beautiful “Tahiti Beach” and otherwise tour the island, use the “public” pool at the upscale Hopetown Inn and Marina and tour the famous lighthouse.  We became addicted to a local ice cream flavor, “caramel  chocolicious”(it tastes even better than it sounds) and dinghyed over to “Captain Jack’s” on a regular basis for breakfast, lunch or dinner. The meals did not disappoint.

Mike and Bejay arrive at "Captain Jack's" for another breakfast

Mike and Bejay arrive at “Captain Jack’s” for another breakfast

Sylestial Star moored in Hopetown Harbour

Sylestial Star moored in Hopetown Harbour

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Atlantic Ocean Beach, Elbow Cay

Atlantic Ocean Beach, Elbow Cay

Plaque marking the

Plaque marking the “Loyalist” founding of Hopetown

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The founder arrived with her 4 sons.

Monument Garden for important Hopetown residents

Monument Garden for important Hopetown residents

Breadfruit Plant from Captain Bligh's second voyage

Breadfruit Plant from Captain Bligh’s second voyage. This one on HMS Providence.

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Low Tide on Tahiti Beach

High Tide on Tahiti Beach

Tahiti Beach on Elbow Cay

Our mode of transportation for touring Elbow Cay

Tahiti Beach

Tahiti Beach

Weather on the Atlantic

“Weather” on the Atlantic

The Garden of the Beautiful

The Garden of the Beautiful

One of favorite Island Vistas on Elbow Cay

One of our favorite Island Vistas on Elbow Cay

Sylvia & Bejay

Sylvia & Bejay at the Elbow Cay “Coffee Shop”

The world of cruising sailors can sometimes seem awfully small.  Under the category of “What are the chances?” we had 3 serendipitous encounters in the confines of Hopetown Harbour.

Our friends from Rock Hall, Gary and Kathy, who we had sailed with 2 years ago to the Florida Keys, had long tried, unsuccessfully, to introduce us to their Rock Hall buddies, Hayden and Radeen, who sail “Island Spirit”.  So what are the chances that “Island Spirit” with Hayden and Radeen aboard, would enter Hopetown Harbour, in the Bahamas, and pick up the mooring ball ahead of us?  They did.  And we dinghyed over and finally met them.

“Island Spirit” from Rock Hall

And then, on a dinghy ride to the Hopetown Inn and Marina for a swim, we passed “Rally Point” from  Masons Island.  Geez!  Could it be Tom Lane, past Master of the Corinthians during my tenure on its Afterguard? Indeed it was and so we caught up on things with Tom.  He is the first and only other Corinthian that we have encountered since crossing from Florida.

Lastly, we managed a “shout out” to “Neverland”, formerly from our marina, Spring Cove, in Rock Hall. Five years ago, we had given the owners some ideas on several places to spend time as they embarked on their first cruise to New England.

The Admiral, Captain and their dinghy

The Admiral and Captain explore Hopetown Harbour.

Sylestial Star at rest in Hopetown Harbour

Sylestial Star at rest in Hopetown Harbour

Hopetown Harbour and Lighthouse

Hopetown Harbour and Lighthouse

Mike returns through the hatch on top of the Hopetown Lighthouse

Mike returns through the hatch on top of the Hopetown Lighthouse

On top of the Hopetown Lighthouse

On top of the Hopetown Lighthouse

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“Joyriding” Hopetown Harbour in our dinghy

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Another Lighthouse vista – the Harbour in the foreground, Atlantic Ocean in the background.

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Hopetown Harbour, Sylestial Star, Elbow Cay and the North Atlantic

Marsh Harbour

April 18, 2015

We entered Marsh Harbour rather inauspiciously – following behind a garbage scow that was entering at the same time.  There must be some pithy comment that covers this sort of welcome!

Sylestial Star followed by a garbage scow - picture from the stern of Carolina Moon

Sylestial Star followed by a garbage scow – picture from the stern of Carolina Moon

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Entering Marsh Harbour

Marsh Harbour

Marsh Harbour

Marsh Harbour is not quite what we expected.  Fortunately, Bejay had forewarned us that, despite it being the  center of things in the Abaco island chain of the Bahamas, there is no real town per se. Instead, there is a pretty good size protected harbor supporting quite a few anchored vessels in its basin., many apparently there for the season. The harbor is lined with 3 medium size marinas and one working boatyard. Behind the marinas there is a 2 lane road ringing the harbor and continuing on past some small strip center stores, a few shops and restaurants, several hardware stores and Maxwell’s, the only real supermarket in the Abacos.  Oh, and one very small but heck of a bakery.  In fact, “Da Bes Yet” bakery.

With the best freshly baked cinnamon rolls and bread around

With the best freshly baked cinnamon rolls and bread around

Of course, we had to try some of their goodies, especially the frosted cinnamon rolls.  Geez, they may have been the best we ever had!  – Yummy!  We then ordered several loves of bread for later pick-up from Jay, the cashier, including the Bahamian specialty of delicious Coconut bread.  We met the smiling baker, who is Jay’s mother-in-law, on a return pastry run.  She is “retired” but continues to bake because she loves doing it.  We inquired about them opening a franchise outside Philadelphia so as to satisfy our addiction. One can only hope!

The "Hunter-Gattherers" return "home".

The “Hunter-Gatherers” return “home”.

Sylvia and Bejay returning from a provisioning run

Sylvia and Bejay returning from a provisioning run

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Are Mike and Tom lost?

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373 slip neighbors in Marsh Harbour

With a population of around 5,000, Marsh Harbour is, by far, the largest “town” in the Abaco chain of islands.  Walking the Harbour area, the impression is of fewer residents and certainly no “town” in the normal sense  of the word. The physical infrastructure is mostly 3rd world. By and large, the people seem quite happy.

Sylestial Star and Carolina Moon, cockpit to cockpit

Sylestial Star and Carolina Moon, cockpit to cockpit

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Sunset from our dock in Marsh Harbour

“Sunsail” and “Moorings” charter 40 monohulls and catamarans out of the “Conch Inn and Marina, which is where we tied up. Needless to say, it is a very active marina with lots of comings and goings.  The young Bahamians that work here scramble on and off the boats as if they were born into it, which maybe they were.imageimage We took advantage of our time here to do some work on the boat – oil and filter changes – and to troubleshoot some persistent issues including reconciling some seemingly inconsistent data we were receiving from our solar controller and our Xantrex Link Pro battery monitor. Thanks in large part to Mike’s patient instruction, we now have a better understanding of these 2 measurements.  Our refrigeration unit has not failed, but it has been a source of some angst as temperatures have varied widely and problematically requiring the attention of the crew.

Also,  there was the little matter of the Captain breaking the port filler cap dipstick when changing the gear oil.  Despite contacting every boat supply and boatyard around Marsh Harbour and obtaining the help of a member of the “Moorings” staff in the search for a replacement part, it appears that we would need to request the part from the states.  That is clearly a non-starter.  So Sylvia, Tom and Mike jury rigged a replacement with a part from a hardware store.

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Can you guess what this is?

Can you guess what this ominous scene is?

Besides continuing to enjoy the Bahamian sunsets, we sampled most of the small restaurants(typically outdoor bar and grills) on the harbor front.  Most were OK but we eventually became regulars( breakfast, lunch and dinners) at “Jakes” , a rather plain strip center restaurant geared more toward the locals, and serving predictable quality food at reasonable prices.

At "Jakes"

At “Jakes”

Now that we appear to have regained some of our landlubber footing, it is time to move on. Next port of call is “Hopetown” on the other side of the Sea of Abaco.  Mike calls it “the Jewel of the Abacos”

Transiting “The Whale”

April 13, 2015

The passage from Green Turtle Cay to Fisher’s Bay on Great Guana Cay is not a long one, only 15 nautical miles.  But it can be tricky as one leaves the Sea of Abaco through the Whale Island Channel, crosses the reef into the Atlantic Ocean and then recrosses the reef further south back into the Sea of Abaco.

Our passage through the reef to Guyna Cay - Presented depths are in meters.

Our passage through the reef to Guyna Cay – Presented depths are in meters.

Standard procedure is is to wait for a favorable weather report, which includes listening each morning on VHF channel 68, otherwise known as “Cruisers Net”, for direct reports from other cruisers and then to depart, and, upon approaching the inlet, broadcast an update request to other boats that have just transited the area. Our planning and timing was good as waves were only about 1′ to 2′, winds 10 to 17kts from the southeast and our crossing occurred during slack tide.

Sylestial Star approaching "Whale Channel"

Sylestial Star approaching “Whale Channel”

Passing Whale Island on the Atlantic side

Passing Whale Island on the Atlantic side

Along with “Carolina Moon”, we dropped anchor in Fishers Bay off “Great Guana Cay” at 1pm.  We dropped our hook well off a beach we would use for landing our dinghys.  Charts showed some rocks ahead of us so we choose to be safe rather than sorry and anchor further out. During our 4 nights at anchor here we saw a sailboat try to move into that area, only to run up on said rocks.  It took about 10 “tug” dinghys and a dive boat to pull it off.

Sylestial Star dropping anchor in Fishers Bay.  The Captain is on the bow.  The Admiral is moving forward to see what the heck is taking so long.

Sylestial Star dropping anchor in Fishers Bay. The Captain is on the bow. The Admiral is moving forward to see what the heck is taking so long.

Great Guana Cay is well known for 3 reasons.  First, for “Nippers” beach front bar, located on a small bluff overlooking the Atlantic Ocean.  Second, for the seemingly endless beautiful beach below “Nippers” on the Atlantic side.  And third, for “Grabbers Bar and Grill”, located on the beach on the Sea of Abaco side of the island.

“Nippers” is reached after walking a dirt trail across the island and turning left at an old broken down and rusted tractor.  It is famous for its “stiff” drinks.  We can attest to the accuracy of that statement!  The beach and adjacent reef is as beautiful as advertised.  And “Grabbers”?  Let’s just say that after an interminable (and normal for the Bahamas) wait for our food, the black flies seemed to enjoy the conch more than we did.

Approaching "Nippers" on Great Guana Island

Approaching “Nippers” on Great Guana Cay

"Nippers" overlooks the Atlantic Beach

“Nippers” overlooks the Atlantic Beach

Sylvia and Tom walk the beach on "Great Guyna Cay"

Sylvia and Tom walk the beach on “Great Guana Cay”

View from "Grabbers" out into the anchorage at "Great Guyna Cay"

View from “Grabbers” out into the anchorage at “Great Guana Cay”. Our dinghys are tied to a tree on the beach to the right.

Some overcast skies and rain while we were at anchor for 4 nights at “Great Guana Cay” resulted in reduced solar panel production and a needed running of the engine to charge the batteries.  It looks like our new panels will keep us sufficiently charged for up to 3 nights at anchor without the need for an engine recharge.  After that, we begin approaching a 50% discharge on our house bank of 2 – 200 amp AGM batteries.  An LED  anchor light and all LED cabin reading lights have reduced our consumption.  That, and adjusting a set screw on our newly installed fresh water pump (thereby reducing its run time), have also contributed to our improvement. But, it appears from our revised consumption chart that we will still need to run our engine from time to time while on the hook.

Great Guana Cay, like all others to date, is simply beautiful.  The water is pleasing to the eye, as the pictures will attest.  The sky is almost always blue, a fresh breeze blows through most anchorages (at least so far), and, unlike some other islands and areas further south (e.g. Nassau), are either uninhabited or sparsely populated.  The temperature has been in the upper 70’s to mid 80’s with increasing humidity.  Can you say “Picture Postcard”?

Where does the sea end and the sky begin?

Where does the sea end and the sky begin?

Marsh Harbour, on the other side of the Sea of Abaco, is our next destination.

So where are the Green Turtles?

April 8, 2015

Green Turtle Cay

This is the first inhabited island where we have stopped overnight since leaving Fort Lauderdale.

And it is our first stay in a marina since arriving in the Bahamas. Sylestial Star is now secured in a slip at the Green Turtle Club, in White Sound, on Green Turtle Island.

But first, let me talk about from where we came – lovely Powell Cay.  We arrived at Green Turtle Cay yesterday after having spent 3 relaxing nights on the hook at Powell Cay. Powell Cay is a great location for isolation and relaxation. We swam, read, did boat chores and dinghyed to and explored this uninhabited Cay with Mike and Bejay who were anchored not far away.

Approaching Powell Cay

Approaching Powell Cay

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We love our Garmin Naviation Software! Touchscreen, it provides us lots of info. Here is a partial plotted course, in brown, to Powell Cay.

 

Mike said that this is the most crowded he has seen this large anchorage in his many visits. If this is crowded, I’ll take it!  The Cay is not very wide so we walked through some underbrush and trees to its Atlantic Ocean side where we walked the beach and could observe the ocean breaking on an off-shore reef – not a good place for sailing!  The contrasting water colors with white waves breaking outside the reef was quite memorable.

Relaxing on a Water Mattress after a swim

The Admiral relaxing on a Water Mattress after a swim

Sylestial Star at rest - The Admiral is off-duty.

Sylestial Star at rest – The Admiral is off-duty.

The captain returns after his swim

The captain returns after his swim

Ashore on Powell Cay

Ashore on Powell Cay – Mike, Sylvia and Tom

 

We dinghyed over to Carolina Moon for an enjoyable pasta dinner our 2nd night on the hook at Powell Cay. We stayed late, as we often do after a meal. The 4 of us always find a lot to talk about.

The wind shifted slightly to the southeast on our 3rd night in the anchorage so we lost some of our lee protection and experienced winds over 20 knots. However, the wind eventually died down during the evening. We slept well as our Mansion Supreme anchor with 100′ of chain and overall rode of 115′ held us firmly in place.

A Bahamian Sunset

Bahamian Sunset

Happily, we have had no problems so far with energy consumption since we arrived in the Bahamas.  Mike and Bejay, who also sail a Beneteau 373, gave us a tip not found in our “Sea Frost” owners manual that reduced our refrigerator usage.  As a consequence, each day our 2 140 watt Kyocera solar panels with Blue Sky controller have generated enough amps to keep Sylestial Star sufficiently charged( including 3 nights on the hook at Powell).   No need to run the engine while at anchor at this point!  We’ll see how this plays out on some not so sunny days.

Our thanks to Brian(electrical) and Gary(mechanical) for their help with last spring’s install in Rock Hall.

Green Turtle Cay is a very different experience from Powell Cay but a nice place to spend some time taking in life on a small Bahamian island. We rented a golf cart( the typical mode of transportation here) and explored the island with Mike and Bejay, who have visited here on their 2 previous trips to the Bahamas.

Our transportation on Green Turtle Cay

Our transportation on Green Turtle Cay

The island is bordered by the Atlantic Ocean on the east and the Sea of Abaco on the west. The western side of the island has a small natural harbour on its north, named White Sound and a small natural harbour on its south, named Black Sound. Each harbour has several medium sized marinas which can only be approached at high tide( the tidal difference is close to 3′).

Most of the islands 450 inhabitants live in its only town, New Plymouth, located on a small peninsula jutting out from the west side.  Houses in New Plymouth are an interesting mix of 18th and 19th century American architecture painted in Bahamian colors.

Colorful Homes in New Plymouth

Colorful Homes in New Plymouth

New Plymouth was settled by exiled American Loyalists, who were on the losing side of the American Revolutionary War and former slaves, who the British saved when they evacuated Charleston and Savannah at the war’s end. Most of the current inhabitants are their descendants and honor their British heritage in many ways including a beautiful sculpture garden with busts of famous ancestors.image

The "Loyalist" Sculpture Garden in New Plymouth

The “Loyalist” Sculpture Garden in New Plymouth

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Busts in the "Loyalist" Garden

Busts in the “Loyalist” Garden

While walking around town( and stopping at its one small bakery for some delicious home made baked goods), we walked down an alley and visited “Vert’s Model Ships”. Vert, who looks close to 90, works in a hot shed, behind the house where he was born, building large wooden model ships, most fully rigged. He makes all of his parts on a small lathe in his shop. He keeps all of his extra parts in dozens of glass jars, which he hangs from the shop’s ceiling. And he keeps all of his finished models in a large glass display case, also in the shop. Most sell for $1,000 to $2,000.

Vert’s model ships are beautiful and would look at home in the U.S. Naval Academy Museum or the Royal Navy Museum in Greenwich.

New Plymouth streets honor its British heritage

New Plymouth streets honor its British heritage

The best(and only) bakery in New Plymouth

The best(and only) bakery in New Plymouth

We walked the docks in Black Sound.  Although not quite as nice as Green Turtle on White Sound, they are adequate and run about .50′ for those who stay for a month or the season.  Most of the boats in the marina appear to be full season slipholders with most being Canadian.

New Plymouth

Sylvia and Bejay walking the town.

We were impressed with the dock hands at the Green Turtle Club. After visiting the fuel dock. Justin, the dock hand, jumped on board to tend our. lines as we entered our slip. He lassoed the outside pilings from 10′ away as we entered the slip. He was 4 for 4 on first tries between our 2 boats. Justin the Cowboy!

In our slip at The Green Turtle Club

In our slip at The Green Turtle Club

A flower among the Palms

A flower among the Palms

The Club and marina are quite nice with a small beach, rental cottages and a very nice large screened in restaurant where the delicious meals were worth the rather longish wait for the food. There are hundreds of dollar bills taped to the walls and ceiling  of the bar area along with flags of many yacht clubs, but no Corinthian flag.  Are we the first Corinthians to visit?

Our Bahamian and Corinthian flags

Our Bahamian and Corinthian flags

As this is being written inside the club(only place so far we can get a wifi signal) a popular Bahamian band has begun playing outside. Close to 100 guests and locals have joined in the fun and will be dancing until midnight.

Oh, the Green Turtles?  Once in great abundance on Green Turtle Cay, they, like the Indians, the Spanish, the Pineapple farms and the salvage ships waiting for wrecks on the reef, are long gone.

Tomorrow the weather will be favorable so we will catch the tide, transit the reef via Whale Passage at slack tide, and head further south in the Sea of Abaco.

Crossing Little Bahama Bank

April 3, 2015

Great Sale Cay

Did we mention how beautiful the water is on the “Banks”?

Uninhabited Great Sale Cay was our 2nd stop as we continued our crossing of the Little Bahama Bank on the way to the Sea of Abaco. An anchorage on the west side of this larger island offered more wind and wave protection than the night before.

Little Bahama Bank

Little Bahama Bank

On the Little Bahama Bank

On the Little Bahama Bank

Passing the time

Passing the time away

After arriving at 2:30 pm, Sylvia beat Tom in a race to see who could get into the water first. She swam over to Carolina Moon, which was anchored not far away. Tom donned flippers and followed her across. Needless to say, this crystal clear turquoise water( where you can see the bottom and your anchor embedded in the sand) is a joy to swim in. We throughly “spritzed” each other with a pressure spray bottle after exiting the salt water, thereby avoiding using precious on-board water taking a nautical shower.

We anchored in misnamed Northwest Harbour

We anchored in misnamed Northwest Harbour

Relaxing  on a "Water Hammock"

Relaxing on a “Water Hammock”

After a swim - our first ever "selfie"

After a swim – our first ever “selfie”

Enjoying a cockpit dinner

Enjoying a cockpit dinner

We have become extreme water conservationists, using only small amounts of the 99 gallons of fresh water in our boat’s water tanks each day. We rinse our plates and pots in salt water before cleaning them and have found other substitute means to accomplish tasks usually requiring water.

After a day on and in the water and then enjoying another fine dinner on-board prepared by chef Sylvia, there is no doubt we will sleep well tonight.

Tomorrow, we will head to another uninhabited island, Powell Cay, where we plan to spend 3 days and nights on the hook, sheltered in the lee from increasing east winds.

Living on Island Time

Powell Cay, Bahamas

April 3, 2015

We made it!

Clear turquoise water, blue sky, uninhabited islands with sandy beaches and unlimited sailing possibilities. That is the Bahamas and that is where we are on this, our 3rd day after leaving Fort Lauderdale, Florida.

After a final topping off of fuel and water tanks and the addition of jerry cans with additional fuel and fresh water, we departed Ft. Lauderdale through Port Everglades inlet at 12:50 pm on April 1st. The weather cooperated, with seas of only 2 feet and wind of 10 knots from the east, allowing us to sail north up the coast for a planned rendezvous at latitude 26 degrees, 31 minutes north, longitude 80 west with our friends, Mike and Bejay on sailing vessel Carolina Moon at 7 pm. They were sailing south from the Lake Worth inlet.

Heading north from the Port Everglades inlet.

Heading north from the Port Everglades inlet.

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Southbound shipping traffic

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Rendezvous with “Carolina Moon” at 26 degrees 31′ north, 80 degrees west

After an on-time rendezvous, both boats then turned southeast in order to pick up the northward flowing Gulf Stream at a location that would enable us to take advantage of its strong 2 to 2 1/2 knot current.  This  should  bring us northeast near West End, our initial destination in the Bahamas. As always, we stood roughly 3 hour watches throughout the night. Previously prepared meals and listening to IPod music kept us going while on watch. And the weather continued to cooperate with calm seas and reduced wind. Shipping traffic on this clear and moon lit evening was minimal and our radar was able to identify it well in advance and track it with our Marpa plotting and collision avoidance system. After sufficient southing we angled northeast on the appropriate course into the Gulf Stream to pick up its added boost.

A Florida sunset off our stern

A Florida sunset off our stern

Depth

Partial Nightime instrument panel, clear radar screen at bottom

As planned, Sylestial Star and Carolina Moon raised West End just before daybreak. After passing through the breakwater at 7:30 am, and jockeying for position with several power boats at the fuel dock, we docked and checked in with Bahamian Customs.  With that  we took down our yellow “quarantine ” flag, hoisted the Bahamian flag, fueled up and exited through the breakwater. We then turned north on the Atlantic until we reached a point just south of Memory Rock, our crossing point through the reef from the dark blue waters of the ocean to the pretty turquoise waters of Little Bahamas Bank, our gateway to the Bahamas.

Instrumentation view of Sylestial Star's Bahamas approach

Instrumentation view of Sylestial Star’s Bahamas approach

Sunrise over West End, The Bahamas

Sunrise over West End, The Bahamas

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Bahamian Customs, West End

Bahamian Customs, West End

Waiting for fuel, West End, The Bahamas

Waiting for fuel, West End, The Bahamas

Remains of our quickly devoured reward for Crossing, Peeps by Gracken

Remains of our quickly devoured reward for “The Crossing” – Peeps by Grackin

After a slow 1 hour crossing of the reef, with Tom at the Helm calling out depths every 20 seconds and Sylvia on the bow directing our progress with hand signals, trying to avoid brown and shallow patches, we continued on to our first anchorage, at Mangrove Cay.  We and the crew of Carolina Moon arrived safely but very tired at 5:30 pm. The crossing from Fort Lauderdale to Mangrove Cay took 29 1/2 hours and covered 131.6 nautical miles. The Fort Lauderdale to West End overnight leg took about 20 hours.

On Little Bahama Bank

On Little Bahama Bank

Relaxing before collapsing in our anchorage at Mangrove Cay

Relaxing before collapsing in our anchorage at Mangrove Cay

Mangrove Cay is a very small uninhabited island, located on the Little Bahamas Bank, and is a good first stop on our way east to the Sea of Abaco as it offers protection from both north and east winds. The location is postcard pretty. By the time we got the boat shipshape we only had enough energy to sit and take in the ambience and sunset before dropping off to a much needed sleep.

Sunset over Little Bahama Bank

Sunset over Little Bahama Bank

Saying Goodbye to Fort Lauderdale

March 31, 2015

Bahamas or Bust!

We have enjoyed our time in Fort Lauderdale but it is now time to move on to our newest adventure, crossing the Gulf Stream to the Bahamas and then cruising among its many islands, otherwise known as the “Island Experience”. All of our marine weather sources, including Passage Weather, SailFlow and, of course, NOAA point to a weather window more than sufficient for a night crossing of the western North Atlantic Ocean and onto the Bahamas Banks.

During our last few weeks in Fort Lauderdale we enjoyed the company of some visitors. Our friend Kari drove down from Stuart, where Sylestial Star wintered 2 years ago. After enjoying a walk along the New River Riverwalk and touring Las Olas Boulevard, we had lunch at the local creperie, one of our favorite restaurants in town.

Shopping Buddies on Las Olas

Shopping Buddies on Las Olas

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Resting Shopping Buddies

 

Other visitors were of the non-human variety. Mr. Crab wandered onto our finger pier looking for his girlfriend, Ms. Lobster. Unfortunately, he was unable to locate her, forgetting that crabs walk sideways and lobsters walk straight and he wasn’t able to locate her for a date.

Looking for Ms. Lobster

Looking for Ms. Lobster

Is Ms. Lobster down there?

Is Ms. Lobster down there?

Also, we were in the cockpit one morning when we heard a constant chirping on our finger pier. When we looked, we saw a brand new baby duckling, obviously looking for its mother. Mother duck and 5 other baby ducklings were no more than 10 yards away and eventually mother duck waddled over to its missing chick and pecked its beak which stopped the chirping. The lost chick fell in line behind its siblings and they continued on. The brood attracted many photographers over the next few days. Sadly, by then, there were only 3 ducklings left.

Mother Duck and her brood

Mother Duck and her brood

Fort Lauderdale makes good use of its Riverwalk for some well attended events and celebrations in its parks including Jazz Festivals, charitable events, concerts and, a quite lively St. Patrick’s day party where one has the opportunity to pet a baby 3 foot long alligator( mouth tied shut) in a petting zoo. Thanks but no thanks.

Getting ready for the Paper Boat parade

Getting ready for the Paper Boat parade

For a good cause

For a good cause

Waiting to start

Waiting to start

Let the Parade Begin

Let the Parade Begin

St. Patrick's Day Party - Music and Dining

St. Patrick’s Day Party – Music and Dining

Fun on the Riverwalk

Fun on the Riverwalk

Sylvia with a Leprechaun

Sylvia with a Leprechaun

We have been able to get around Ft. Lauderdale pretty well, especially to 24th street, home of the flagship West Marine store, the Boat Owners Warehouse, Sailorman Consignment, McDonalds Hardware, auto parts stores, car rental companies and Lester’s Diner (60 years in business and offering Florida’s BEST blueberry pancakes. We ate there as often as we could!

On Fort Lauderdale Beach

On Fort Lauderdale Beach

In tune with the ambience

In tune with the ambience

We frequently walked up to 5 miles a day, used city buses and shuttles, taxies, water trolleys and even Uber. We were very impressed with Uber, especially for supermarket provisioning runs which required a quick response.

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At “The Barnacle”

For us, no trip to South Florida would be complete without a visit to “Coconut Grove” which is located in South Miami. It is home to the Vizcaya Museum, “The Barnacle”, Dinner Key (where we stayed on a mooring 2 years ago) and a nice restaurant district. Like most of South Florida, it surprised us in terms of the amount of new construction activity and high rise cranes. Apparently this hard hit, bubble popped real estate market of 2007 is recovering nicely from the recent recession.

Boat Building at the Barnacle

Boat Building at the Barnacle

Happy!

Happy!

Also Happy!

Also Happy!

In Coconut Grove

In Coconut Grove

Tomorrow we say goodbye to Riverwalk, Cooley’s Landing and some new friends we have made in the marina including cruisers from South Africa, Australia, Britain and elsewhere – it is always interesting to hear their individual stories, nautical or otherwise. Now, with our provisioning done, various repairs and maintenance complete (including installation of a new fresh water pump, oil change and replacement of Jib Sheets and headsail roller furling), we are as ready as we can be to go.

Bahamas, here we come!

Tragedy in Fort Lauderdale

March 7, 2015

We were recently witnesses to the end of a very sad story that played out here in our marina.  The body of a woman, who had been missing for a month, was discovered in her car, under water at the base of the marina’s boat ramp.

The woman, a well known local piano teacher, was last seen leaving an evening concert in downtown Ft. Lauderdale.  A month long search for her ended when a side sonar sweep of the New River revealed a car underwater just off the marina’s boat launch ramp.

Foul play is not suspected.  The woman apparently became disoriented while driving, missed the on ramp to the nearby 7th street bridge, which you can see in the attached pictures, drove into the marina’s parking lot and then    drove down and off the boat ramp, thinking it was an access to the bridge.

Amazingly, this is apparently not the first time this has happened.  Lighting near the ramp was and continues to be poor.  Having said that, no one in the marina can understand how someone can mistake this boat ramp for a bridge access.  Also, how boat after boat was launched down the ramp over the last month without hitting the submerged car is a complete mystery.

Sylvia talks to some of neighbors as we try to understand hoe this tragedy occurred.

Sylvia talks to some of neighbors as we try to understand how this tragedy occurred.

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The CSI team is on-site

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TV news helicopter overhead

The car is brought up

The car is brought up

Three divers attached floats to the front and back of the car

Three divers attached floats to the front and back of the car.  The 7th street bridge is in the background.

The car is pulled onto a flatbed for examination

The car is pulled onto a flatbed for examination

The divers are cleaned and washed down after recovery

The divers are cleaned and washed down after recovery

Detective Figone briefs the press

Detective Figone briefs the press

The boat ramp

Marina boat ramp

 

Winter in Fort Lauderdale

February 21, 2015

This is day 12 of our 3rd visit by water to Fort  Lauderdale, which is turning into one of our favorite places in Florida.  The slip price is right, at a little over $1 a foot.  The city marina location of Cooleys Landing is centrally located on the New River Riverwalk area in downtown with lots to do and a constant parade of all size boats for us to watch. There is a Publix 3 blocks away that we use for re-provisioning.  There is a Flagship West Marine store a short taxi ride away.  And it is a good jumping off location for us to travel further south to Miami Beach or either north or south to several class “A” inlets.

In our slip in Cooleys Landing Marina, Fort Lauderdale

In our slip in Cooleys Landing Marina, Fort Lauderdale

Some New River traffic off our bow at Cooleys Landing

Some New River traffic off our bow at Cooleys Landing

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Cooleys Landing Marina

Cooleys Landing Marina

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Condos and Boats on the New River

On the Seawall of the New River

On the Seawall of the New River

Large oncoming traffic, especially as the River bends, can be a challenge!

Large oncoming traffic, especially at narrow draw bridges and as the River bends, can be a challenge!

Our friends Brian and Marj arrived here on February 11th for a 4 night stay on-board.  We have a live aboard pattern down as this is the 3rd time the 4 of us have shared a sailboat, the 2nd on ours plus a BVI charter.

They arrived by car, so we were able, as planned, to spend 2 days at the Miami Boat Show – purportedly the largest in the world. The Miami Beach Convention Center, site of the show, was only a 30 minute drive from here without traffic.  With traffic, not so fast!

Some things can drop overboard and it’s no big deal.  Unfortunately, a pc is not one of them as Marj learned when her pc dropped into the water as she was boarding Sylestial Star.  Despite taping neighbor’s fish net to our boat hook and sweeping the bottom with it, we were unable to see or retrieve the computer.  That is, until someone nearby volunteered to dive for it.  And so, with fins and goggles, that is just what he did; successfully retrieving it from the bottom.  He was handsomely rewarded and Brian and Marj, after a lot of research, electronics shopping and uploading of some new software, were able to recover what information they needed from the hard drive.

We hung out a bit, saw the movie “American Sniper” and spent the better part of 2 days at the boat show.

The girls  "hanging out" in the aft cabin

The girls “hanging out” in the aft cabin

At the Miami Boat Show

At the Miami Boat Show

With the "cutest little tug - a Ranger" at the show

With the “cutest little tug – a Ranger” at the show

Our time on Miami Beach would not have been complete without visiting our nephew, Tim, who is principal string bass with the Miami New World Symphony Orchestra.  Tim graduated from the Curtis Conservatory last year, has played internationally and is under contract with TNWS while also subbing, as needed, with the Philadelphia Orchestra. In other words, it is great to be Tim,  especially living on Miami Beach at the ripe old age of 23!

Tim took us on a tour of the all expenses paid and quite nice apartment complex on Miami Beach that houses orchestra members and a backstage tour of the beautiful new TNWS, located several blocks away and across from the Miami Convention Center.  We finished the evening with a delicious dinner at a local Thai restaurant.

With Tim at the New World Symphony Orchestra theatre

With Tim at the New World Symphony Orchestra theatre

Happy Dilenschneider's

Happy Dilenschneider’s

After the boat show on Saturday, Sylvia and Tom, Brian and Marj and their in-laws Steve and Kathy, all squeezed into 1 small car for a drive to the one restaurant experience that should not be missed on South Beach – Joe’s Stone Crabs .

We arrived, along with 200 “of our closest friends” for the first dinner seating of 4:45.  When the doors open, names are called in quick succession, after which you enter to be greeted by a line of 20 waiters, all dressed in black tie, one of whom will escort you to a table for a delicious meal of stone crab legs and other delicacies.  He or she, with 3 or 4 other black tie servers, attend to your needs.

Waiting for dinner at Joe's Stone Crab Restaurant on South Beach

Waiting for dinner at Joe’s Stone Crab Restaurant on South Beach

Guess what we had for dinner at Joe's?

Guess what we had for dinner at Joe’s?

A description of our time here in Fort Lauderdale would not be complete without including a comment on our ride up the River to our slip at Cooleys Landing.   The New River is known for its very fast current and so it behooves a sailor to time his docking consistent with slack tide on the river.  This we did when we departed from Lake Sylvia.  Unfortunately, despite passing under 3 on-demand Bascule bridges without a problem, we were stopped in our tracks when the lights and alarm on the usually open railroad bridge flashed and sounded, followed quickly with the bridge closing almost in our faces.

We quickly found a space on the Seawall to tie up, followed by other boats who began jockeying next to us on the narrow river.  One Train engine passed by instead of the 2 or 3 trains mentioned by the Andrews Street Bridgetender when we inquired how long the bridge would be closed.  Then we were told that this automatically controlled bridge was “broken” and that a technician was being sent by “Jacksonville” to repair it.  By the time we made it through we had lost slack tide and needed 3 or 4 attempts before we were able to bring Sylestial Star in stern first.  We were helped by our friend Theirry, who ran along Riverwalk to come on board to help us after hearing us talking to the Bridgetender on channel 9.  We had passed Theirry earlier on his 32′ Nordic Tug Puffin II as we motored upriver.

Thierry on his 32' Nordic Tug, Puffin II

Thierry on his 32′ Nordic Tug, Puffin II

Our weather?  Our temperature last night reached 39 with a wind chill in the upper 20’s.  It is cooler than normal now in south Florida.  Daytime highs usually run from 68 to 75, sometimes to 80 with blue skies and strong winds.  It is perfect for Tom, a little cool for Sylvia.  Offshore weather has been brutal  with high seas and often very strong winds, gale force at times – not exactly conducive to an ocean crossing.

We have been working on some boat project in recent days, replacing our very old dock lines and our original headsail fuller and Jibsheets and other jobs.

Here are a few more Ft. Lauderdale and Miami Beach pictures.

The aforementioned railroad bridge

The aforementioned railroad bridge

The Holocaust Museum in Miami Beach

The Holocaust Museum in Miami Beach

Clashing Cellos at the Ft. Lauderdale Performing Arts Theatre

Clashing Cellos at the Ft. Lauderdale Performing Arts Theatre

On the Riverwalk

On the Riverwalk

U.S. Navy Monument of the Riverwalk

U.S. Navy Monument on the Riverwalk in Fort Lauderdale

Relaxing on board

Relaxing on board

Pretty Lady!

Pretty Lady!